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7 The wagon also had a canvas top and room not only for
bulky food items but also for extra clothing and bedrolls.
8 The first chuck wagon was an instant success. Eighteen
cowhands joined Goodnight and his partner, Oliver Loving, to
drive the cattle to New Mexico for a handsome profit. The route
they took—later called the Goodnight-Loving Trail—became one
of the most heavily used cattle trails in the Southwest.
9 The chuck wagon soon was the backbone of all successful
cattle drives. Other ranchers created their own moving kitchens,
and eventually the Studebaker Company produced chuck
wagons that sold for $75 to $100 apiece, about [$1,900 to
$2,500] today.
10 The chuck wagon was much more than a mobile kitchen.
Sometimes called “the trail drive’s mother ship,” it was like a
magnet that drew the men together.
11 The wagon and the ground around it were the cowboy’s
home. There he enjoyed hot meals, a warm fire, and good
companionship. He could also get a bandage, a haircut, or horse
liniment for his sore muscles. And there, under the stars and
around the chuck wagon, he crawled into his bedroll each night.
12 Though cowboys took their orders from the trail boss, the
cook was king of the chuck wagon. Usually a retired cowhand,
the cook was the hardest-working member of the trail team.
He was the first up in the morning and the last in bed at night.
Besides making meals, the cook packed and drove the chuck
wagon, doctored sick or injured cowboys, pulled teeth, trimmed
hair, repaired clothing, and settled bets and arguments.
13 Cooks were often grouchy and seemed to enjoy their
reputations for being ill-tempered. It was said, “Crossin’ a cook
is as risky as braidin’ a mule’s tail,” and “Only a fool argues with
a skunk, a mule, or a cook.”
14 A good cook was essential to the drive’s success. One
cowboy recalled, “A camp cook could do more toward making life
pleasant . . . than any other man in the outfit.”
15 A good cook tried to offer a varied menu, even though he
was limited to items that could be stored for weeks at a time.
Cowboys ate plenty of beans, rice, sourdough biscuits, salt
pork, and strong coffee. Dessert was a spoon of molasses, an